Depiction of the Renowned Yufuin Location, Golden Scale Kinrin Lake, Not Found in the Original
One of the stories featured in the anthology, Raccoon Doggie’s Realm: The Musical Journey Within, is set in a famous location in Kyushu—the Kinrin or “the Golden Scale” Lake.
Although not present in the original Japanese version, the rich description of this special setting is included in the English version.
Here is a sneak peek into the story, featuring a man’s surreal encounter with a mysterious woman staged in this extraordinary locale.
Yufuin, nestled in the heart of Oita Prefecture on Kyushu, the most southwestern of Japan’s islands, offers a tranquil retreat far removed from bustling city life. This picturesque onsen town is blessed with over nine hundred sources of hot springs, which collectively gush out a total of forty-nine kiloliters per minute.
Set in a basin surrounded by mountains, including Mount Yufu—revered since ancient times as a sacred dwelling of the gods—Yufuin is a coveted destination for travelers and onsen enthusiasts alike.
The walk through the town reveals the nostalgic landscape of traditional Japan, with stone walls, terraced fields, and swirling streams, and invites visitors into a serene, timeless atmosphere that captures the essence of rural beauty.
Simultaneously, the lively comings and goings of people in and out of traditional Japanese inns (ryokans), art galleries, and chic cafés add a vibrant contrast to the peaceful surroundings.
Kinrin Lake, or “Golden Scale Lake,” is one of the most renowned and popular sites in this onsen town. It is said that in the early Meiji period, the Confucian scholar Mouri Kuusou named the lake after observing the scales of fish shimmering like gold in the sunset.
Although the landscape surrounding the lake is breathtaking throughout the four distinctive seasons, the temperature of the water—fed by spring water bubbling from the lake bed and nearby hot springs—causes steam to rise from the lake surface from autumn to winter, creating a fantastical atmosphere.
As the steam rises, the atmosphere becomes charged with the anticipation for a god’s appearance.
This magic of Kinrin Lake reaches its peak from early to mid-November, when the foliage of the surrounding trees and mountains turns red and yellow.
These colors reflect on the mirror-like surface of the serene lake, complemented by the solemn torii gate of the Tenso Shrine and the backdrop of divine Mount Yufu.
As the steam rises, the entire atmosphere becomes expectant—as if waiting for the appearance of a god at any moment.
This ethereal setting is further mystified by a unique annual phenomenon, the Twilight Mirage, which emerges as the sun dips below the horizon. As the golden hue of sunset mirrors the legendary scales of Kinrin Lake’s glittering waters, the setting sun and rising moon perfectly align.
This fleeting moment bathes the lake in a mystical light, making the water simmer with ethereal colors. Locals believe that witnessing the Twilight Mirage brings good fortune, a cherished secret with only the fortunate few there to see it during this magical time.
The view is particularly fabulous from the north side. Quietly and modestly, beyond the tranquil expanse of the lake’s surface, lush willow branches extend all the way to the water, their leaves whispering secrets in the gentle breeze that rustles through them.
To the left, enveloped by green trees, the back of brownish shrine is visible, its ancient cedar exuding a faint, soothing aroma that blends with the earthy scent of the surrounding forest.
I spend a long time at the lakeside restaurant, savoring my third cup of coffee while having this view all to myself.
